Pakse, Paksong, Party

April 7, 2024

Surprise Dinner

We were up in Pakse when we got a call from ‘Ham.’ He and Sa have the ‘Library’ and bar up in Hua Det where we make music. Ham plays several instruments, guitar, drums and bass. Sa sings and is an amazing performer. Ham asks, “What are you doing tonight? Would you like to come to dinner with us?”

“Sure,” we say, “where are we..”

“Okay! We’ll pick you up at 7 o’clock,’ he said before I could finish the question, and hangs up.

At 7:00 pm we wait outside in front of the hotel for him. He arrives closer to 8:00 pm, of course, Laos time. As we get into his car he says, “Sorry, no aircon. Only Natural!” Sin, Sa’s brother is reclining in the front seat, checking his social postings on his phone as we drive out of town and down a country road. Donna and I wonder where we are going. Ham talks to us in a confusing mix of broken English and Laos. Putting it together we realize, it’s the golf/country club that we had seen previously on the map.

We didn’t yet realize that this was the week before Pi Mai Laos, which is Laos New Years. The festivities start the week before and continue for the week after bringing a grand total of three weeks or more of gatherings and parties. If it’s one thing that the Lao people love to do, it’s party!

Good Company

When we arrive there is a trio playing on a stage and we see Sa and some friends at one of the few occupied tables. We sit and they pour us wine and hand us a menu to order. We ordered up some fried chicken wings and crispy pork to share at the table since that seems to be the way. Family sharing style.

We are joined by a man and a couple of girls. He is introduced as Mr. You, and the girls are Linda and Mary. Donna and Mary talk about traveling while I sit back and enjoy the music, food, atmosphere, and the wine.

Then Ham asks the musicians if we can play some songs on their instruments. Ham played guitar while I played on the piano, and Sin sang songs like “Country Roads”, “Have you ever seen the rain?”, and “Imagine.” It was a nice evening.

As the party at the golf club was finishing, it was agreed we would all meet up at Mr. You’s restaurant in the morning for breakfast before going to Paksong. Nine o’clock sharp! 

Breakfast

Mr. ‘You’ is a Korean entrepreneur who not only owns the restaurant but also is a partner in the golf club we were all at the previous night. We arrived a few minutes before the agreed time and found the two young travelers were already there. ‘You’ offered us coffee and before long he placed two large pizzas before us. These were followed with ham and egg on white bread sandwiches, and a bowl of rice, mushroom soup. It may not have been a very traditional breakfast but was tasty. 

The traveler girls, Mary from the Netherlands and Linda from Ethiopia, were interesting conversationalists. We exchanged facts, stories and useful ideas. One interesting fact that we learned is that coffee originated in Ethiopia! ‘You’ moved about the restaurant greeting newcomers and our extended crew of revelers from last night as they trickled in. Sa, the singer/owner of the Library on Don Det arrived. Ham was still back at their Pakse home, asleep. She said they continued last night after we went to our hotel until three am, which is their normal bedtime. They do run a bar, so late nights are normal.

I’m Famous!

After our growing entourage finished eating and drinking their coffee, we went outside to get into multiple cars and trucks. A Laos man came to me saying, “Good morning! I am a big fan of you guitar playing and singing!” He saw me on Don Det! I was a little surprised at my ‘fame.’“Thank you!” I managed to blurt out. Donna and I were relegated to go with Ham, who had finally arrived, and Sin, Sa’s brother.

The car featured what Ham called ‘natural air conditioning’, also known as open windows. We climbed into the hot car with messy back seats, shuffling the disorganization to the sides. Donna found a plastic bag and organized some of the refuse into it. We drove out of town on roads we had never been on which was interesting. With the open windows my hair whipped around wildly. It’s a good thing Donna made me comb it before leaving.

Paksong is at a much higher altitude and is a major production region of coffee. As we slowly ascended the mountain, we could feel the changes. Donna’s ears popped a couple of times and it became cooler, which was welcome. Ham pointed out points of interest as we passed them, like the huge Dao Coffee plant. The time passed quickly and soon we were turning left down a dirt road. Even though we crept slowly on the road, the reddish-brown dust managed to cover everything. Donna realized that this was not good for her and put on a facemask. We always keep them with us, just in case. We arrived at a shack of a restaurant at the trailhead that led to some waterfalls. Ham called on his telephone, “Hey, where are you? Oh, okay.”

Oops, Wrong Falls!

“Wrong falls. We go to another!” We get back in the car and drove back down the reddish-brown dusty road. We crossed the main road and turned right. Soon we entered a much more commercial facility. After parking, Ham opens the trunk of his car and pulls out an electric guitar. We walk to the ticket office, buy tickets to enter, and walk down the well-kept path to a magnificent view of Tad Fann waterfalls.

The rest of the group were admiring the view and discussing whether or not they would experience the zip line. Mr. You was handing out 100,000 Kip to the children and babies there. Many people were saying, “No way! It’s just too high!” Before long, there was a group that decided on definitely going to zip. I am frugal with our cash and just couldn’t see paying $35 for the experience. Then I was told that Mr. You was graciously paying for everyone who wanted to try it. Donna said, “This is your chance! I know you want to. You’ll have a great time. Go, enjoy!” 

“What about you?” I asked knowing heights are not ‘her thing.’ She had absolutely no desire to try this.

“No! You go though.”

I joined the group of people and thanked Mr. You for the opportunity. I asked him if he was also going. He said, no, he had done it before and there is way too much climbing for him.

Zippity Do Da

They sized me up and had me step into a harness, snapping me closed and hooking me up with safety equipment. Then we were all directed to an area dedicated to learning what to expect, meanings of the different hand signals our instructor/guides might use and how to handle the equipment and brake. We each took a turn on a very short zip line to test our retention of the lesson. Then we were directed to the real platform to begin our experience.

We lined up making our way down to the launch platform where we hooked ourselves to the safety cable. The guide then hooked each of us in turn to the main cable. My turn came and after hooking the pulley system on with the additional safety hook I was told to sit back in the harness, legs up. “Ready?”

“Yes.” I said and he let me go. Szzzzzzzzzzzzzz was the sound of the zip line.

Flying Above the Jungle and Waterfall

It was really a quite pleasant sensation to fly high above the forest below. The view of the waterfalls was wonderful. Just a little behind me was one of the guides with my iPhone videoing my experience. I turned slowly toward him and waved, but soon realized I was about to land at the next platform and allowed myself to turn back just in time to lift my legs and brake for entry. Another guide was waiting there to help with the unlocking and locking of the safety gear.

I made my way around the tree, attached to the safety cable, and climbed a shakey cable ladder to the next platform. I was then reattached to the cable for the next zip. “Sit down and hold your arms out.” I did, and he let me go. Szzzzzzzzz. I flew ‘spread eagle’ through the trees to the next platform. Here I was attached again to a safety cable above me and had to walk to the next platform on a cable like a tightrope walker. It wobbled side to side as I tried to walk as steady as I could to the next platform. I was only afraid I might lose my shoe, but I made it. I then climbed up to the next platform. 

All this time I was following those before me and there were others coming in behind. Mary was behind me.

The next run, the guide went on the same cable, holding my legs with his so I faced sideways. I think I would have liked to face the other way towards the canyon instead of the trees. 

Ham, Zipline Jammin’

Ham, if you remember, had brought a guitar with him. He insisted on zipping with his guitar and had gotten permission as long as it was attached to him and could not fall. Sa says he is guitar crazy, that he even sleeps with any one of his multitude of guitars 🎸! I guess that’s why he’s so good.

Up, Up, Up!

We landed at the next platform where I was completely unhooked and told to walk up the hill. There were stepping stones embedded into the path to make it easier to climb up, up, up. By the time I arrived at the resting place I was exhausted! It was hard to catch my breath. Maybe this is partially due to the altitude of the mountains. I’m sure it had nothing to do with being old and out of shape! Then again, Mary, at 21 and in shape, was struggling as well.

The view from the resting hut was beautiful and included a view of another waterfall we couldn’t see otherwise. The valley was lovely. Then just as I was able to breathe again, we were told it was time to climb some more. This path was even steeper and longer leading us to the top of the mountain and the last platform that would return us to the beginning where our friends were waiting. This time they had me launch backwards. Szzzzzz we whisked through the trees and finally landed on the last platform where I was released from the safety to climb up to the diner and back to our waiting friends. The zip line workers help me remove the harness.

“How did you like it?”

“It was great fun… except the climbing up the mountain! But, what goes down must come up!”

‘You’ smiled and handed me a drink. Mary came up and took a seat as we told the group the story of our zipline adventure.

Before long, we were joined by a smiling Ham, triumphantly holding his guitar as they unharnessed him. 

Next Falls!

When we were all back together, Mr. You said, “okay, lets go!” and we all walked back to the cars and trucks. But this was not the end, oh no! We then drove to the place we had gone with Ham before, back to the shack of a restaurant at the trailhead that led to some waterfalls. This time they had put us in Mr. You’s truck because of the dust wasn’t good for Donna. This was also nice since he drove his truck down to the falls, saving Donna the difficult hike down. “Welcome to my waterfalls, I bought these through my company!” Mr. You said.

Donna and I got out and made our way to the makeshift bridge across the stream to the place under a large tree by the water. There was a waterfall with about a 30 to 40 foot drop spilling into a large pond that we were told is 10 plus meters deep. That would be about 30 feet deep. Two inflatable rafts as well as several life jackets, and a large cooler with drinks were pulled out of the back of the truck and carried to the site. 

Soon the rafts were inflated and we were told to get in one, so we could enjoy a close proximity to the falls without getting wet. Donna and I got in and they pushed us off toward the falls. Mr. You and some others, wearing life jackets, paddled us out to the falls. Sa got in another boat with someone pushing her closer and closer to the falls. Donna said, “Please don’t push us into the falls!” “We won’t.” While they obeyed Donna”s request, Sa was not as lucky… they pushed her right under the falls! Somewhere between screaming and laughing, she was drenched. 

Swimming into the Falls

We paddled around for a bit and then returned to the shore. Several of the men were very gently helpful with Donna getting out of the boat. After getting her settled on land, I borrowed a lifejacket and went for a swim toward the waterfall. I wanted to experience being hammered with the falling water. I was slow getting there and by the time I arrive three very scantily clad young ladies in the most minimum of swimwear also arrived at the same point. To avoid any difficulties, then or in the future, I made my way to the other side of the falling water. I didn’t want to associate myself with them.

Stepping carefully on the slippery rocks, I positioned myself for what I thought would be the best place to jump into the water that was crashing down, and dove forward into it. Water from that height is quite strong! It did indeed hammer me! I’m sure had I not been wearing a life jacket, I would have been driven downward much further. As it was, it was fun. But I admittedly only did it once before swimming back to the shoreline.

After a bit, the rafts were deflated and packed up. Mr. You said, “Okay! Let’s go!” and we all loaded back into cars and trucks and headed back to Pakse. But this was still not the end of the day!

Even More?!

We wondered what was up as we pulled into the large Korean hotel. We got out of the truck and walked in with everyone else. In the back of the hotel is a large golf practice range. To one side were tennis courts. There was talk of another food frenzy. Mr. You said that it was hot and Donna should stay in his air-conditioned office. Yes, “his office.” This was another of his many businesses and investments in the area. It seemed he owned everything! Some of the people said they needed to go home and take a shower before feasting. “We have showers upstairs!” Mr. You said.

Nonetheless, people felt the need to also change clothes so ended up going different directions with the idea to meet again in a few hours. Ham drove us back to the hotel where we showered and changed clothes. Ham returned for us a bit later when we discovered we were going to travel 20 kilometers to another restaurant where they set up a stage with instruments for Ham and I to play music.

Dinner and Jamming

The place was a lovely setup in the large garden with a small stage and a long table. The Mekong river was just down an embankment. Ham played the guitar for a while until they brought out what seemed to be a never ending variety of  food. Several dishes feature fish, either fried, or grilled or in a salad. All was Laos style. Mr. You, strangely, had not had much Laos food before and was sampling everything. His own restaurants cooked Korean style foods.

After I was full, I went to the stage and played some songs while the owner struggled to make the sound good. Eventually it was okay and Ham joined me, first on electronic drums and then on guitar. It was fun. After a while it evolved into Karaoke with Mr. You singing Korean pop songs. He was actually pretty good with intense emotion.

Finally the evening came to a close. After fond farewells and thank you’s we departed with Ham who drove us back to our hotel where we collapsed into bed. We were told the rest of the crew went to another bar to continue into the night. Party on!