After spending hours of admiring beautiful carpets and extraordinary inlaid marble, our ‘free ride’ with the tuk-tuk driver was finally bringing us to our desired destination. Admittedly, both of the factory detours were interesting and educational in prelude to the main event of the day, a monument to love.
As we drew closer, the Taj Mahal appeared in all its splendor. We’ve all seen photographs of this icon that represents India, but they pale to its magnificence.
The Taj Mahal, also known as the “Crown Palace,” is the most well-preserved and architecturally beautiful tomb in the world. Built by the fifth Mughal emperor, Shah Jahan, in 1631, it was a memorial to his beloved wife Mumtaz Mahal. A Muslim Persian princess, she was his third and most cherished wife.
The Sad Love Story
Sadly, Mumtaz Mahal passed away due to complications arising from the birth of their fourteenth child. This occured while accompanying her husband in Burhanpur in a campaign to stop a rebellion. The emperor was so devastated by her death that all his hair and beard turned snow white within a few months.
While his wife, Mumtaz Mahal, was still alive, she requested four promises from the emperor. First, that he build the Taj; second, that he should marry again; third, that he be kind to their children; and fourth, that he visit the tomb on the anniversary her death.
The construction of the Taj Mahal took several years and the help of 20,000 workers. Following its completion, the Shah was overthrown by his son, who sentenced him to living out the rest of his life in prison. He was therefore unable to keep the last promise to his wife as he gazed at his beloved creation through of his cell window.
Entering the Gardens
Located on the banks of the Yamuna River, the Taj Mahal is counted among the “Seven Wonders of the World.” Our driver took us to the Western gate. This is the most popular place to enter as it leads to the most iconic view of the Taj Mahal. As we stepped out of the tuk-tuk, our driver assured us that he would wait for us, saying, “Take your time, I will be here.”
Passing through the magnificent monumental gate made of inlaid and intricately decorated red sandstone, we were captivated by the beautiful gardens that surrounded the Taj. Two red brick mosques in perfect symmetry stood on either side of the Taj, framed by these lush and fragrant gardens. Unlike many other places we had seen in India, everything here was clean and well-maintained.
Reflecting on The Taj
As we walked through the gardens, we reached a reflection pool flanked by cypress trees. The intention of this long, glass-like pool was to perfectly reflect the beauty of the white marble Taj. However, on that day, the pools had been drained for cleaning in preparation for a visit by Hillary Clinton.
Rising on a raised platform, the Taj Mahal showcases a symmetrical building design with an arch-shaped doorway of Indo-Islamic origin. The walls of the mausoleum are intricately inlaid with semi-precious stones like coral, onyx, carnelian, amethyst, and lapis lazuli, enhancing the splendor of its white exterior. A bulbous dome crowns the marble structure, which is also surrounded by four minarets of equal height.
Throughout the complex, passages from the Qur’an are displayed as decorative elements. The calligraphy, made of jasper or black marble inlaid in white marble panels, features a flowing florid thuluth script – an elegant cursive script commonly used for mosque decorations during medieval times.
Inside The Taj
Inside the Taj Mahal, we found the mausoleum to be exquisite, with intricate tapestries, lavish decorations, and marble cenotaphs dedicated to Mumtaz Mahal and Shah Jahan. Fortunately, we were lucky to be almost alone during our visit, as it can often be crowded with tourists. The interior floor plan consists of a central hall surrounded by eight rooms, following the hasht bishisht principle, which symbolizes the eight levels of paradise. The sound inside the mausoleum reverberated and lingered for quite some time.
The actual graves are at a lower level. Known for its simplicity, the Muslim tradition maintains a ‘less is more’ approach when it comes to grave embellishments. Adornments are kept to a minimum, excluding extravagant decoration. Drawing from this tradition, the legendary lovers Mumtaz Mahal and Shah Jahan were peacefully laid to rest in a simple crypt beneath the inner chamber with their faces oriented towards Mecca. Their Mausoleum, the Taj Mahal, may be a grand symbol of their timeless love story, but their resting place followed the modest practice advocated by their faith.
The Return
After spending hours exploring the Taj Mahal and its gardens, fatigue and hunger started to take their toll. It was time to end our day. We walked back through the Western gate to find our tuk-tuk driver resting under a tree. He quickly got up as we approached and asked, “Did you find it as wonderful as you had imagined?”
“Perhaps even more so!” We replied.
“Where to next?”
“We are hot and tired. I think we are ready to go back to our hotel,” Donna said.
“I could take you for free if you would agree to make one more stop at a different carpet factory, a very good friend of mine. They make the most beautiful carpets in all of Agra…” he began.
“No, thank you. We are tired,” I said. Donna nodded.
“Okay, up to you!” He smiled and bobbed his head.
We climbed into the Tuk-tuk and stared down the road. “Perhaps just a short stop at a marble factory? No? Where shall I take you tomorrow? Have you seen Fort Agra?” He asked smiling.
I don’t think we even answered, and before long, we arrived at the corner near our hotel where we had initially flagged him down. We paid him in rupees and got out of the tuk-tuk. “I will see you tomorrow then,” he said, waving and smiling as we walked towards our hotel.
Tomorrow was another day. We would decide what to do then. For now, all we needed were a shower, a comfortable bed, and maybe later, some dinner.
This is a lovely album that features the amazing natural reverberation of the Taj Mahal.
Paul Horn, Inside (the Taj Mahal)
Next: New Delhi