(76) Welcome to Agra

They Thought It Was Funny

The bang lassi we had prior to boarding the bus worked wonders as we entered a deep sleep. I said sleep, yet it was more of a state of unconsciousness. As a result, the journey to Agra was smooth as silk. We didn’t feel any bumps on the road. The darkness was all-consuming, and it felt as if time had ceased to exist.

Amidst the darkness, I started to hear faint voices in the distance. “Wake up! We’re here,” one of the boys who had demanded our seats called out. Opening my eyes, I saw the bus boys standing over us with smiles on their faces. “Wake up! We’re here,” he repeated.

Donna, still groggy, began to stir. We looked around and noticed we were the only passengers left on the bus. “Where is everyone?” Donna asked. “We’re here. Time to get off the bus,” the boys giggled.

In a daze, I gathered our bags and instruments. The boys stepped back to let us get out of our seats as we made our way towards the open bus door. There, in front of the door, lay a bloated, dead cow. It emitted a putrid stench as flies buzzed around it. “Go on, then. This is your stop!” the boys laughed. We managed to step off the bus, carefully avoiding the dead cow. The boys continued to laugh as the door closed and the bus drove away.

Tuk-Tuk Savior

We found ourselves at a dirt crossroads, seemingly in the middle of nowhere. Having no idea which direction Agra was or how far it was, we stood there, looking at each other, trying to wake up fully.

A tuk-tuk approached us, leaving a small cloud of dust behind. It stopped next to us. “Need a ride?” the driver asked.

“Actually, we do. We need to get to Agra. How much?” I inquired.

“Two hundred rupees,” he responded.

“Come on, isn’t that a bit expensive?” I countered, accustomed to bargaining.

“It’s a fair price, considering I’m already going that way, and you’re seven miles from Agra. I would accept if I were you,” he explained.

“Fair enough,” I agreed, and we got into the tuk-tuk.

Even if we had known which direction to go, it would have been a long walk. The driver asked us how we ended up in such a predicament. We recounted our story, which he found amusing, and he assured us that he would find a good and affordable place for us.

Welcome to Agra

True to his word, he took us to a cheap guesthouse in an old part of town with narrow streets and ancient buildings that were once ornate and beautiful. Now, in various stages of disrepair, they are mere ghosts of their former glory, yet still striking in their own way. We thanked and paid the driver, who bid us farewell.

As we entered the guesthouse, the air was filled with the scent of incense. The entrance was adorned with small statues and wall hangings of various Hindu gods, along with shrines in their honor. We rang the bell at the front desk, and a kind older lady in a sari emerged from the back. After making the necessary arrangements, she showed us to our room upstairs.

The room was spacious and comfortably furnished, with a large bed, a writing table, and a chair by the window. Against the back wall stood a tall wooden wardrobe. The natural wooden paneling gave the room a dark ambiance, but the ceiling and desk lamp provided ample light.

Now fully awake from our groggy state, we swore off any future experimentation prior to travel. It was time for us to explore the local area on foot.

Exploring Old Town

Agra has a vibrant and modern district with architectural marvels comparable to any major city in the world, but that wasn’t the section we found ourselves in. We preferred to immerse ourselves in the local culture. That’s where the true adventures lay. The area we were exploring had managed to escape the wear and tear of progress for decades. Walking through the city streets, we quickly understood why incense was burned everywhere. The open sewers that lined the roads emitted an unavoidable pungent odor.

The narrow back street was bustling with activity, offering plenty of small shops to discover. Pedestrians had to be vigilant as the largest had the right of way, following the unwritten “rules of the road.” The familiar dusted sepia tone seemed to cover everything. However, the scene was enlivened by women wearing vibrant-colored saris who skillfully maneuvered around Vespas and pedal rickshaws. Fresh fruit and vegetable stands adorned the sides of the narrow street.

We spent the day exploring our new surroundings, going in and out of local shops. Luckily, we found some local food that wasn’t too spicy for Donna. I didn’t mind the spiciness, so I unintentionally set my mouth on fire, which later caused me additional pain in the restroom.

Hiring a Tuk-Tuk

After a restful night’s sleep, we woke up refreshed and ready to explore other attractions. Our plan was to visit the Taj Mahal, so we walked to a busy intersection to flag down a tuk-tuk. Several eager tuk-tuks stopped, each driver vying for the chance to take us to the Taj Mahal at the best price. One of the drivers suggested a shorter visit to his friend’s carpet shop for a discounted rate. We chose this driver and got into his tuk-tuk.

“During our short visit to the carpet factory, you’ll find it very interesting to see the weaving process. Afterwards, I’ll take you to the famous Taj Mahal,” our driver explained enthusiastically. He kept looking back at us while driving, and we were concerned about his lack of attention to the road.

“Perhaps you should focus on driving?” we suggested.

“Of course! Don’t worry, I’m very familiar with these roads. My friend’s carpet shop is not far, and the visit won’t take much time. But it’s truly fascinating, I assure you,” he replied, bobbing his head from side to side. We remained worried that he might have an accident.

Tour of the Carpet Shop

We traveled several kilometers outside the city, leaving behind the urban area, and eventually arrived at a large cement building. Our driver led us inside, where his “friend” greeted us and offered to give us a tour of the carpet factory. Meanwhile, our driver went back to the office, most likely to receive a kickback or tip for bringing potential buyers.

Agra has been a significant center for carpet weaving since the 16th century, but the craft was introduced relatively late to the Indian populace due to their limited need for large carpets. Emperor Akbar utilized prisoners to create carpets in jail as a means of generating income and reforming them. Skilled Persians were brought in during the 17th century to teach their weaving techniques to the prisoners. Today, carpets woven in Indian jails during this era are highly valued. The carpet industry experienced a revival during British rule in the nineteenth century, bringing new life to the business.

Astounding Craftsmanship

The process of handmade carpet weaving, the intricate pattern creation, and the production of the finished product were fascinating. These woolen carpets, typically woven on a loom, require months of daily work to complete. We watched as a woman skillfully trimmed the threads to an even height with her shears. The patterns were all beautiful, and if we had the means and a suitable space, we might have considered purchasing one. Fortunately, we were spared from making a decision as we politely made our way towards the exit.

As we were leaving, the salesman became increasingly pushy, but we managed to escape. We acknowledged the impeccable workmanship and acknowledged that the price, although beyond our budget, was likely fair given the amount of effort involved. Finally, we departed, wishing them well, and returned to our waiting tuk-tuk.

Another Factory?

Our driver informed us that although this visit provided us with a substantial discount, our entire trip could be free if we made a short visit to a marble factory.

“Marble?” we asked, intrigued.

“Yes, there you will witness the extraordinary inlay work with marble, similar to what you’ll see at the Taj Mahal. The visit won’t take long, and we’ll be at the Taj Mahal shortly. What else would you be doing? It’s very interesting,” he continued, rambling on.

“Okay, but not too long. We really want to see the Taj Mahal today,” we insisted.

“Yes, yes. No problem!” he assured us while bobbing his head.

The Marble Inlay Factory

The marble factory was not far, and we arrived at another concrete building off a small road. Our driver escorted us inside, and we were greeted by another “friend” eager to showcase their marble inlay work.

Undoubtedly, the marble inlay work was exceptional. The shop displayed tables, chairs, chess sets, bowls, and various other items with stunningly intricate designs. This art form has been handed down through generations, with each artisan learning the cherished techniques from their parents and grandparents. The pieces can take months to complete. Authentic Agra marble is opaque and does not transmit light, so the shop used flashlights to demonstrate the quality of their products in a dimmed setting.

Although the inlay work was impressive, we were eager to proceed with our visit to the Taj Mahal. As we made our way towards the exit, our driver discreetly requested that we stay a bit longer to ensure he received his payment for bringing us, thereby keeping our ride free. Reluctantly, we agreed and took some time to admire the beautiful inlay work on display.

Finally!

Finally, we had spent enough time in the marble inlay factory and graciously left, fulfilling the driver’s and our own obligations. He was compensated for his services, and we hopped back into the tuk-tuk to complete our journey to one of India’s most renowned sites, the Taj Mahal.

Next: The Taj Mahal